Heaven Hill 85th Anniversary Single Barrel Bourbon Review
Straight out of the bottle this bourbon’s inviting nose led me to jump in and taste, which was a small mistake. It was surprisingly oaky and tannic, especially for a 13-year-old. So, I poured a little more and abandoned it for about 20 minutes to let it open up, and it did.
BOTTLES DETAILS
- DISTILLER: Heaven Hill Distillery
- MASH BILL: 78% Corn | 10% Rye | 12% Malted Barley
- AGE: 13 Years
- YEAR: 2020
- PROOF: 107 Proof (53.5% ABV)
- MSRP: $299.99
- WHERE TO BUY: Available in December at the Bourbon Heritage Center and select Kentucky retailers.
STEVE'S NOTES
NOSE: Nutella | Crushed Pecans | Banana Pudding | Frosted Flakes Cereal
TASTE: Cocoa Nibs | Black Raspberry | Dark Caramel | Oak
FINISH: Medium length, warm, slightly drying and with a bonus wisp of smoke
SHARE WITH: Lovers of sturdy, well-aged whiskeys.
WORTH THE PRICE: Compared to its similarly aged Heaven Hill siblings (see below), probably not at $299.
BOTTLE, BAR OR BUST: Bar
OVERALL: Straight out of the bottle this bourbon’s inviting nose led me to jump in and taste, which was a small mistake. It was surprisingly oaky and tannic, especially for a 13-year-old. So, I poured a little more and abandoned it for about 20 minutes to let it open up, and it did. The oak returned, but cloaked in brown sugar, and the tannin nearly disappeared save for the finish—and not much of it there either. It’s a delightful whiskey all around; a fine example of what the team at this venerable distillery has learned over 85 years.
I—like others, I’m sure—wondered how it compares to Henry McKenna, that legendary Bottled-In-Bond just three years the 85th’s junior, so I cracked one: barrel 7133, filled on 5/29/2009. Since each is a product of the same mash bill, the similarities are easily found in side-by-side sips. The differences aren’t nuanced much either: the 85th is better composed, has rounder edges, a bit more complexity and that slightly smoky coda. The McKenna finishes with a bolt of spice and some subtle fruit notes hidden in the 85th’s complexity. But since I know you’re going where I am … even at $70 a bottle—a common retail price for McKenna—it costs $229 less than the 85th. But the 85th, I must add, is a premium bourbon offered in a shelf-stud of a collector’s case.
But for even more scrutiny, I offer up the William Heavenhill Bottled-In-Bond 13-year-old. Priced at $179.99 at the Heaven Hill Bourbon Heritage Center in Bardstown, Ky., it’s also not an impulse buy. But were I to choose my favorite bourbons of 2020, this one could well be my top pick. To my palate, it’s flawless—the bourbonest bourbon I’ve had in a very long time. Nose, taste, mouthfeel and finish score 10's at every mark, and it’s $120 less than the 85th.
What does this cross-comparison prove? That Heaven Hill makes terrific bourbon at any price. Cheers to its first 85 years, and cheers again in hopes of another 85 years of great work.
BRAND NOTES
LATEST LIMITED-EDITION RELEASE IS A 13-YEAR-OLD SINGLE BARREL COMMEMORATING 85 YEARS OF LIFTING AMERICA’S SPIRIT
As part of our 85th Anniversary celebration, Heaven Hill is Distillery proud to announce the release of Heaven Hill 85th Anniversary 13-Year-Old Single Barrel Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey. This single barrel limited-edition release celebrates the 85 years of family-owned, distilling tradition.
“Perseverance is a hallmark of Heaven Hill’s history, and a value resonating across the industry this year,” said President Max L. Shapira. “Our steadfast commitment to quality and an enduring legacy continues to guide Heaven Hill’s path forward. We look forward to Lifting America’s Spirit for the next 85 years, as we have since 1935.”
The Heaven Hill 85th Anniversary edition is comprised of one barrel filled on Dec. 13, 2006 and dumped on Dec. 13, 2019, honoring the anniversary date Heaven Hill first filled a barrel with Kentucky Bourbon in 1935. The 13-year-old Kentucky Bourbon, another key callback to the anniversary date, was aged on the second floor of Rickhouse G on Heaven Hill’s main Bardstown campus. The anniversary bottle is cut to 107 proof, Heaven Hill’s original barrel entry proof circa 1935, and non-chill filtered.
This ultra-premium Bourbon will be released in an elegant, tall 750ml bottle placed in a custom wooden box bearing two H’s on each side signifying the Heaven Hill name. The bottle is secured in the box with a magnetic closure and sits in a blue satin-lined base.
The distiller’s notes label features hand-written bottle numbers, tasting notes, and D.S.P.-KY-1, denoting the Heaven Hill Bernheim Distillery. The one-time release of Heaven Hill 85th Anniversary 13-Year-Old Single Barrel Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey will be available in December at the Bourbon Heritage Center and select Kentucky retailers.
Disclaimer: Heaven Hill provided Bourbon & Banter with a sample of their product for this review. We appreciate their willingness to allow us to review their products with no strings attached. Thank you.