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Bourbon Whiskey Reviews

Pinhook Vertical Series Rye 8-Year Review

Upon arrival, the proofs of those 32 barrels were 125. Near that modest body of water and behind the rickhouse's brick walls, they've steadily lost proof down to 108, which is pure magic in whiskey aging.

Steve Coomes

• 3 min read
Pinhook Vertical Series Rye 8-Year Review

BOTTLE DETAILS

STEVE'S NOTES

SHARE WITH: Any and all rye whiskey lovers and bourbon lovers who aren't yet sold on rye.

WORTH THE PRICE: Yes, but I'm partial not only to rye, but also to Pinhook's stable of great and increasingly well-aged ryes.

BOTTLE, BAR OR BUST: Bottle, but at $85, but who could blame you if you sought out a bar pour first?

OVERALL: So many whiskey stories are pure hokum, but the tale behind the Pinhook is great. Some of its partners actually work in the horse industry–two are pinhookers, meaning they spy ability and talent early on in a colt's life; and they also maintain horse racing bloodstock for well-heeled buyers. The story also points to the partners' ability to pick good, young barrels required to launch the brand almost a decade ago. It's always nice to see a story's realism and symbolism blend this nicely.

Sean Josephs, Pinhook's master blender and cofounder, operated two whiskey-centric restaurants in New York City, and one in New Orleans, well before bourbon fully boomed. Unlike some Level 2 sommeliers, he wasn't wedded only to wine. He understood and loved American whiskey, saw its star rising and wanted to surf that amber wave as a blender and owner. He now spends more time in Kentucky's horse country than ever anticipated, tasting Pinhook's original sourced MGP stocks and whiskeys distilled for the brand at Castle & Key Distillery since 2017. Coincidentally, that distillery is almost equidistant between Keeneland Racecourse and Churchill Downs, two legendary horse racing venues if you're unfamiliar with the sport.

I've spent several hours with Josephs watching him taste, eliminate and combine whiskey samples into blends that become Pinhook releases. The process has always been strategic and transparent, yet still baffling to me despite his patient explanations. No matter, though, because however he does it, it comes out terrific.

So many Pinhook releases are much younger than this 8-year-old, but their complexity belies their youth. Pinhook whiskeys often get too little credit for demonstrating how great younger whiskey can be when it's well-managed and blended skillfully.

Upon arrival, those 32 barrels' proofs were 125. Near that modest body of water and behind the rickhouse's brick walls, they've steadily lost proof down to 108, which is pure magic in whiskey aging.

For readers who've been to Castle & Key, you know of the ancient, 538-foot long rickhouse positioned near the flat bank of Glenn's Creek. That's where these MGP barrels have aged since their rehoming in 2015. Upon arrival, those 32 barrels' proofs were 125. Near that modest body of water and behind the rickhouse's brick walls, they've steadily lost proof down to 108, which is pure magic in whiskey aging.

The result of that lazy and luxurious rest is a rye whose nose is flush with green apples, mint, black pepper, anise and dark caramel. (Josephs describes the nose as "a walk through the forest during autumn.") On the palate, it's even more inviting: a Demerara-syrup-like body invigorated by black pepper, baking spice–clove in particular–bruleed sugar, charred oak, white chocolate and mint.

This is a seriously good rye, and using this in a proper mint julep would be decadent. But hey, the Kentucky Derby is 9 days away as I write this, so that drink is likely entrenched in my subconscious right now. Because of this review, my sample is gone. Time to find a bottle.

BRAND NOTES

This is the fifth release in Pinhook’s award-winning Vertical Series as well as the debut of newly designed packaging that perfectly blends tradition and modernity. Blended from just 32 barrels and bottled unfiltered at cask strength, the 8 Year offers a bright nose of orange zest, green apple, caramel, and cinnamon; leading to an intricate palate of licorice, burnt sugar, cedar, and clove.

Disclaimer: Bourbon & Banter received a sample of this product from the brand for review. We appreciate their willingness to allow us to review their products with no strings attached. Thank you.