Fruit and floral characters dominate Remus Master Distiller Exp. Series #2 Wheat Whiskey

BOTTLE DETAILS

• DISTILLER: Ross & Squibb Distillery
• MASH BILL: 95% Wheat | 5% Malted Barley
• AGE: 9 years
• YEAR: 2026
• PROOF: 113 (56.5% ABV)
• MSRP: $69.99
• BUY ONLINE: Soon to be in the market

STEVE'S NOTES

SHARE WITH: Any whiskey drinker who's new to wheat whiskey. The great news is so many that have been released in the past year and a half are really good.

WORTH THE PRICE: It's a bargain! Even in a 700ml bottle this remains a good value. In American whiskey's recent boom years, I'd wager the entry price here may have been even higher.

BOTTLE, BAR OR BUST: Bottle. Not only is this a high-quality, super-flavorful whiskey–no shocker coming from MGPI–it's a great entry into what so far is a terrific category.

OVERALL: Let's start with some info from this bottle's press release.

“There is nothing more exciting to a Master Distiller than having the space for exploration" said MGPI/Ross & Squibb's Ian Stirsman. “With Series No. 2, I set out to create something entirely new for Remus by working with our LKSV, 95% wheat whiskey mashbill for the first time. It’s a continuation of our commitment to innovation while respecting the deep-rooted heritage of our distillery.”

Distilled in 2017, Remus Master Distiller Experimental Series No. 2 is finished in a combination of Tawny Port, White Port, Oloroso Sherry, and Ruby Port casks. The result is a richly layered whiskey offering aromas of dark chocolate and almond praline, followed by a palate of chocolate, malty sweetness, and subtle earthiness. The finish is lingering and warming, with notes of chocolate and malt gradually fading into gentle nuttiness.

So let's discuss those terrific barrel choices first: tawny port, white port, ruby port and Olorosso sherry. I'm a sucker for port barrel finishes that work–not all do. Olorosso, though, is hit or miss for me. Short rests in such barrels come out too nutty or acidic for my taste. Long rests, such as the 17 months Angel's Envy rested its bourbon in Olorosso, are outstanding.

When I opened this bottle several weeks ago, I was struck by all the fruit and floral notes it presented. Admittedly, I hadn't read the press release and didn't even know it was a wheat whiskey. I just knew there was a lot going on, and while I was intrigued, I put it aside until a Ross & Squibb Zoom press call to discuss this with Ian Stirsman, Ross & Squibb's master distiller. It was clear he was excited about this, the second in the company's Experimental Series.

When you work for MGPI, you have lots mash bills to follow exactly to spec. But now Stirsman was talking about new flavor levers, such as these well-chosen barrels and long rest times, now at his disposal. As he talked and we sipped, it became clear that this is a master work in secondary cask aging. The balance is impeccable, and the treatment of the source material–a delicious and unique 95/5 wheat-to-barley whiskey–is as good as it gets.

The nose is sweet and elegant and fruity, loaded with spring flowers–which are, thankfully, finally abundant in Kentucky–and bears a whiff of baked fruit pastries. Fresh raspberries and hibiscus tea interweave with fresh apple slices and warm fried donut.

The port barrels lever fruit onto the palate with ripe grape notes that move toward hard grape and cherry candies. Eventually, flavors shift to golden raisin and lemon curd and orange marmalade. Toasted grain and wheat bread undergird it all. Despite the mash bill containing just 5% malted barely, the mouthfeel on this is velvety, and it drinks well below its 113 proof.

Not only is this whiskey a pleasant surprise overall, coming from a big staid distillery makes it even more impressive. Let's hope Stirsman gets to pivot toward even more nuances in future Experimental Series.

BRAND NOTES

NOSE: Dark chocolate, almond praline

PALATE: Chocolate, malty sweetness, subtle earthiness

FINISH: Lingering warmth with chocolate, malt, and gentle nuttiness

Disclaimer: Bourbon & Banter received a sample of this product from the brand for review. We appreciate their willingness to allow us to review their products with no strings attached. Thank you.