Tamworth Garden VSOP Apple Brandy Review

The Tamworth Apple Brandy's nose starts off with toasted oak, cedar, cinnamon and some discernible fruit. The palate fares better with light fruit, elegant body and a long and lingering finish. But there's nothing about it that screams apple brandy. Am I wrong to want that?

Tamworth Garden VSOP Apple Brandy Review

BOTTLE DETAILS


STEVE'S NOTES


SHARE WITH: Any brown spirits drinker who might be interested in tasting one version of the bridge between apple brandy and whiskey.

WORTH THE PRICE: No. $75 isn't a shocking price, but it is enough to lead the buyer to expect something unique–which in this case, would be a more fruit-forward apple brandy.

BOTTLE, BAR OR BUST: Bar. For me, a Bust is bad, and this isn't bad. It just doesn't taste like apple brandy. So, check it out for yourself at a bar

OVERALL: From the news release about this bottle: While rye and bourbon have captivated brown-spirit lovers’ attention for approximately the past century, apple brandy, was the original American favorite and is recognized as the first American spirit. ... Enter Tamworth Distilling, the historically minded New Hampshire craft distillery producing scratch-made spirits that hearken back to the history of the soil it’s built on—including 7-year (Napoleon designation) and 10-year aged (XO designation) apple brandies, made using apples from a local orchard founded in the mid-1700s. 

At BourbonBanter.com, we drink curious, so when offered the chance to review this, I leapt at it because I like apple brandy. Two distilleries located near me–Copper & Kings and Spirits of French Lick–have done a nice job with releases that remain on my shelves, so I pulled them off for reference because ...

... neither the nose nor the palate on the Tamworth really stood out as apple brandy. The high-quality barrels used for this make such an impact that its delicate apple notes seem deprived of the spotlight. Initially, the spirit tastes like easy-drinking American whiskey.

To be fair, I sought to check my own palate by pulling out the four aforementioned apple brandies I had. I nosed and took quick sips of each and found two were comparatively subdued by their barrels (and likely some oxidation over time), one was undeniably born of apples, and another was not only strongly apple forward, the reposado tequila cask in which it was finished amplified those fruit flavors. That's what I like.

So, back to the Tamworth. The nose starts off with toasted oak, cedar, cinnamon and some discernible-but-hard-to-identify fruit: pleasant enough, but nothing about the source material stands out. The palate fares better with some light fruit and fruit pastry, elegant body and a long and lingering finish. Spices from the wood are present, as is campfire and touch of smoke. But again, there's nothing about it that screams apple brandy. Am I wrong to want that?

Eager to find some of the Tamworth's virtues, I revisited the two apple brandies I said were barrel subdued. After having tasted the Tamworth, one presented nicely apple-acidic while the other was delicate-fruit creamy. In other words, expectedly apple-y and not getting that from the Tamworth.

No question that effort and patient aging went into this Tamworth VSOP, and given the distillery's broad whiskey portfolio, it's clear they're serious about spirits making.

But sadly, this isn't doing it for me as a really good, abundantly fruity apple brandy. Perhaps my palate isn't as attuned to this spirit category and I'm missing something? Maybe. Or perhaps I'm right that it needs to showcase the source material more. At least that's what I'd like.

BRAND NOTES


TASTING NOTES: Tamworth Garden V.S.O.P. pours rich and golden in the glass, with custard-y richness on the nose and a full-bodied mouthfeel. Hints of stewed apples and tobacco smoke punctuate whiskey-like notes of vanilla, cinnamon, and clove. 


Disclaimer: Bourbon & Banter received a sample of this product from the brand for review. We appreciate their willingness to allow us to review their products with no strings attached. Thank you.